From the first look at a failing chimney flashing to the final tidy-up, lead work done properly is a methodical process - and Fakenham Roofers carry out lead flashing, valleys, soakers and lead-lined gutters for homeowners in Holt and across North Norfolk.
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If you're arranging lead work on your home in Holt - whether it's a chimney flashing repair, a valley relining or a full set of soakers on a re-roofed slope - it helps to understand what a properly completed job looks like at each stage. This page takes you through the process from initial inspection to the moment we pack up and leave, so you know what to expect and what to ask at each point.
All our lead work is carried out to BS EN 12588.
Before any work is planned or priced, the lead work needs to be properly looked at. A ground-level view through binoculars gives a starting point - lifted flashings, visible gaps at chimney stacks and missing or cracked sections are often apparent from below. But a proper inspection means getting eyes on the detail directly.
For chimney flashings we access the roof slope and look at the full set of details: the apron flashing at the front of the stack, the step flashings on each side, the back gutter behind the stack, and the condition of the mortar pointing holding the top edges of the lead in the joints. We check the lead itself for cracking, thinning, correct bay lengths, and whether soakers are present where they should be.
For valleys, we lift a tile or two at the edge of the valley if needed to see the condition of the lining beneath and whether water is backing up under the tiles. For parapet or box gutters, we check the fall, the condition of the upstands, and the junction details at each end.
The inspection also considers the surrounding structure - the condition of the masonry, any movement in the roof structure that might affect how new lead is fixed, and whether any adjacent tiles or slates need to come off to access the work properly.
Once the inspection is done, we explain what we found and what we recommend. That means being specific: which sections of lead need replacing and which don't, what code of lead is appropriate, and how the new work will be detailed. If the existing lead is in good condition but has simply lifted at the mortar joint, we'll say so and recommend re-fixing rather than full replacement.
This is also the point at which access arrangements are confirmed. Chimney work on a two-storey property will usually need a scaffold lift or at minimum a tower scaffold - working from ladders alone is not acceptable practice for chimney flashings because the roofer needs two hands free to dress the lead properly. On single-storey extensions or low roof sections, working from a short ladder or hop-up is often practical. We confirm this before starting, not as an afterthought.
Preparation is where corners get cut on lead work, and it shows in how long the finished job lasts.
For chimney flashings and abutment work, the mortar joints that will receive the top edge of the lead need to be raked out cleanly to a consistent depth - typically around 25mm. This gives a proper chase for the lead to sit in. If the joint is just cleaned on the surface and the lead is poked in shallowly, it will work loose far more quickly. Old lead, fixings and sealant are removed completely from the area being replaced.
For valley work, the tiles or slates on each side of the valley are lifted back far enough to remove the old valley lining and to give enough width for the new lead to be properly bedded and dressed. Old mortar or former valley lining material is cleared away from the rafter or valley board below.
If the timber substrate is being exposed - on a valley board or a dormer cheek, for instance - its condition is checked. Timber that lead will lie on or be fixed to should be dry and sound. Where lead is in direct contact with timber, a separating layer is used because the acids in some timbers can corrode lead from the underside over time.
This is the skilled part of the work. Lead sheet is cut to the correct width and length for each individual bay. Bay length is important: the Lead Sheet Association recommends maximum bay lengths of around 1.5 metres for most flashing applications, with shorter bays in areas of higher thermal movement. Longer bays crack across the width as the lead expands and contracts with temperature changes.
Each piece is then formed by hand - folded, dressed with a bossing mallet or dresser where needed to fit the profile of the surface. At internal corners and angles, the lead is folded rather than cut and lapped, so there is no joint at a vulnerable point. Where an external corner is needed, the lead is worked outward rather than joined.
The code of lead used is chosen for the application. Code 5 (2.24mm) is the standard for most chimney flashings and valley work in exposed conditions. Code 4 is used for soakers. Code 6 or heavier is used for parapet and box gutters where greater water volumes and longer spans are involved. Using too light a code in an exposed position is a false economy - the lead thins through weathering and movement far more quickly.
Each bay of flashing is fixed at its upper edge and left free to move at the lower edge. Fixing too rigidly at both edges prevents the thermal movement the lead needs - the result is cracking or lifting fixings over time.
For chimney and abutment flashings, the lead is turned into the raked mortar joint, held in place with lead wedges (small pieces of lead folded and tapped into the joint at intervals of around 450mm), then pointed with a suitable mortar. Clips are used to fix the underside of cover flashings to step flashings below.
For valley linings, the lead is fixed at the top edge only and allowed to drape freely into the valley profile. Side edges are turned up slightly or lapped under the adjacent tiles. The tiles or slates are then relaid back over each side, bedded or mechanically fixed as appropriate.
Soakers - the individual pieces of lead that sit under each course of tile at a junction - are laced in as each tile course is relaid. Each soaker overlaps the one below by the gauge of the tile, forming a continuous waterproof layer under the step flashing above.
Once all the lead is fixed and the tiles relaid, the mortar pointing at the top edges of the flashings is finished. The pointing needs to be firm and flush - it is not meant to be a thick strap of mortar over the face of the lead, but a neat fill to the joint that prevents water tracking behind the top edge.
Patination oil is applied to all exposed lead surfaces. This serves two purposes: it accelerates the development of the natural patina that stabilises the lead surface, and it prevents the run-off of white lead carbonates onto adjacent tiles, masonry or render during the early weathering period. It's a straightforward step that a roofer who knows lead will include without being asked.
Any tiles that were lifted to carry out the work are relaid and checked. Ridge and hip tiles disturbed by access or by the work itself are re-bedded. The roof line is checked visually to ensure nothing has been left out of position.
All old lead offcuts, removed fixings, mortar debris and general waste are cleared from the roof and from around the property below. Old lead has scrap value and is recycled. Scaffolding or access equipment is removed and the site is left clean.
Before leaving, it's reasonable to ask the roofer to talk you through what was done and point out the completed sections - either from the ground or from a photo taken on the roof. A good tradesperson will do this as a matter of course.
A single chimney flashing - full set of step flashings, back gutter and apron - typically takes one to two days including the preparation and pointing. A valley relining on a standard semi-detached roof takes a similar amount of time. Larger jobs such as parapet gutters or multiple chimneys take longer and the timescale should be agreed at the quotation stage.
Lead is a commodity metal and its price moves with the market, so any figure here is indicative. A full chimney flashing set on a standard house in Holt or nearby areas currently costs in the range of £500 to £1,200 depending on the size of the stack, the complexity of the detail and the access required. Valley relining costs vary with valley length and tile type. A roofer should be able to give you a clear breakdown covering materials and labour separately.
We carry out lead work across Holt and North Norfolk. Whether it's a repair to a single failing flashing or a full lead installation as part of a re-roofing project, call us to arrange a roof survey and we'll give you a straightforward assessment of what needs doing.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
